Oil Pump Problem

Need some help guys, Im curently having a sumping problem on my 76 shovel, it bleeds a lot when i start it after its been sitting in the garage for a couple of days. im trying to take off the alluminium screw on top of my oil pump in order to inspect and/or change the oil check ball and spring, and i cant get the dam screw off, i have tried all kinds of spray penetrators(including military bug juice) and impact wrench but the dam thing will not budge, im considering using a torch to heat up the screw but im afraid of warping or damaging the oil pump casing any ideas on how to get this thing off without any damage to the oil pump?

They can be very stubborn. Try the "shovelheadusa" forum if you don't get answers here. After a while sometimes the ball won't seat properly or gets gunked up. Get 2 new balls and a spring. Take the first one and drop it in the hole and tap a few times with a hammer & punch. Remove it with a magnet and drop the other ball in.

The shovel sometimes pukes oil after it has set around for awhile. It normally will stop after warmup.

I had so many issues with my old oil pump that I eventually had to replace it.

txs for the advice guys, im going to try and heat it up and see what happens this little issue is holding up other things that have to be done like replacing the oil lines and kicker cover. any pros or cons on using steel braided oil lines vs black rubber?

I would not advise steel braided oil lines. Anything they touch will be scraped and the lines themselves will sometimes fray. Nothing wrong with good old 3/8" transmission hose that you can get at any auto parts store. Get about 8 feet of it. If you can, run as much of the lines as possible under the tranny. It will look cleaner and keep the lines away from your rear exhaust pipe. (I rerouted my oil lines after I posted my signature pic).

I replaced my kicker cover as well about a year ago. I got mine from J&P and also put in a new kicker shaft. Both parts went in without a problem. Didn't even have to ream the bushing - a perfect fit. My shovel is an early '77.

tx for the advice, i think i will go with the plain hoses. i see what you have done and i like it, now Cowboy mentioned there is a tool to get that screw out i never seen one, dont know if it would be worth to buy it, i mean how often would i use it

Heat up the screw good and hot .drip some trany fluid over the hot screw.while its still warm not super hot use the socket .that cowboy is speaking off and a tool called an impact driver.it will come out like butter.

Ps on the check ball if you lap the new ball on the oil pump seat youll get a better seal but it must be 100 percent clean when your done!let me make this clear.100 percent clean!

Here's the Motion Pro and Jims tool cowboy mentioned

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0022ZWO0K...e=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B0022ZWO0K

http://www.ridersneeds.com/motorcyc...appet-screen-plug-tool#select-partnumber=2233

I never buy Jims tools - too expensive - and in this case, three times more expensive.

thanks guys ordered the tool you suggested anyway wth it was only 10 bucks,
got the nut off it was a lot of work had to grind a flat head punch to do the job, when I took the spring and ball out I found a small piece of metal attached to the ball,must have been left over from some work I did on the oil tank last summer, so now I'm freaking don't know what else could have gotten in to the rest of the pump or even the crank f$&k.

Yeah, that's an Oh Shit Moment to be sure. Change the oil/filter and check for metal particles in the oil. I don't know what else to say except maybe you might have dodged the bullet. It's possible the metal could have come from above the check ball (via the oil tank) and hadn't passed into the pump yet.

true that, what else have I got to do at -38c

Better made tools are gonna cost more money.