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1999 FLSTC EVO Carb Tuners Kit help

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by Harlock, Mar 25, 2012.

  1. Harlock

    Harlock New Member

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    Hi Guys,

    New to the forum and already getting my hands dirty.

    Got the Carb Deluxe Tuners kit from CV-Performance and just finished installing it.

    My EVO is kinda stock except for the exhaust. I'm planning to get another air filter installed but haven't set my eyes on one yet (suggestions more than welcome).
    My exhausts are long small with baffles. (Attached a pic for reference)
    Apparently the dealer that had installed my exhaust at the time put a 200 Main Jet in.

    I now changed to the CV kit from 42 to the 46 on the Idle and the 200 to the 185 on the Main.

    It took me a moment to get the mixture almost right and that's where the question begins: I see the "sweet Spot" being between 2 and 3 turns out but mine is on 4.5 turns out. And even then I have a small problem with the higher rpm's (at high speed). Whenever I try to go full throttle the carb begins to cough. Now I'm not sure if I'd need to turn the mixture screw even further out (what is the max before it falls of due to vibrations ?) or get back to the 200 jet.

    Any help will be appreciated.
    Sorry for the longness of the question ... just trying to give all the necessary info :D

    Attached Files:

  2. Tomflhrci98

    Tomflhrci98 Active Member

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    Harlock, I'm not an expert but I have a 98 EVO and threw out my fuel injection a few years ago. I have SE heads, EV27 cam and V&H slipons and CV40 carb. My jets are 45/190. So I don't think your jets are that far off. I think the 200 might be masking an air leak and maybe the idle screw at 4 turns is too.

    If you haven't changed the intake gaskets I would start there. If they are 12 years old then the rubber may have dried out a bit and is leaking air. I would change the two o-rings in the intake to the heads and the rubber that connects the carb. It can't hurt and is cheap insurance.
  3. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    +1 what Tom posted.

    I believe the number one thing contributing to your need for larger jetting is an intake leak. Larger jetting is often required to compensate for an intake leak which ultimately means you are only throwing more fuel at the problem. The easiest way of checking for an intake leak is using propane. Apply propane (unlit of course) around the manifold at the carb to manifold and carb to head flanges while the engine idles. Any drop in idle speed indicates a leak. I like to perform this test at a high speed idle as well.

    Another thing to check out, especially with a carburetor that may have many years of fuel lacquer build up is the idle circuit passages. Remove the mixture screw (or EZ-Just), mixture packing (spring, o-ring, washer), and pilot jet. Spray some carb cleaner into the pilot jet passage and mixture screw passage, then blow out with compressed air. You should get air coming out of the mixture screw hole, pilot jet passage, and the front air passage found at the front of the carburetor at the lower front edge.
  4. Harlock

    Harlock New Member

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    All right guys. Thanks for a quick reply Tom.
    Will try this out next weekend and get back to you.

    I might have turned the Mixture too much out now trying to compensate for the coughing. I'll try again from the beginning just to see how far out it gets to get the sweet spot on idle. Might be less than it is now.

    I'll change the intake gaskets as well while being at it.

    The response from idle was fine. Got the feeling the bike is more responsive now in that area even. Then again it might be subjective.

    I should to the test for leaks before. Don't have any propane in house. Is there any other way to test it ?

    If I will have to remove the carb I'll clean the whole thing as well as you mentioned Ken.

    Have to say that the gasket that sticks to the whole plastic "breather kit/air cleaner holder" from HD (which I absolutely hate) needs replacing as well. Don't know if that would make any difference as well.

    Anyway I will get back to you and report the problem (If I get to the bottom of it).
  5. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    There are other methods of verifying a vacuum leak but they can be messy. They include spraying carb cleaner or WD40. Propane is the preferred method since it is very clean and won't hurt anything (unless you light the torch).

    For anyone else reading this for the first time, what ever you do, Don't light the torch! :p
  6. Harlock

    Harlock New Member

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    Okay,

    First of all sorry it took a while to get back. Weather's been against me.

    I've done all the checkups and no air leaks (the messy WD40 method) ... so I decided to get back to the starting point and see from there. Set the idle screw on the 'sweet spot' and it was actually 2.5 turns out. (I think I messed up before touching this setting afterwards trying to see if it makes a difference which it didn't.) Also installed new gaskets behind the airfilter in front of the carb.

    Did a quick test (without the air cleaner cover) and guess what ... works like a charm. I'll try to do a longer test later on and see ho well it performs but it looks OK to me now. The air cleaner bracket is kind of always in the way but apparently it's only an issue on HDI models. We get a different bracket form the ones in the States. Don't ask why but it's bugging me. (The p/n OEM is 29319-95A. With a google search you'll see what it looks like and you'll understand my frustration in tuning. I'll try to change that and go for a freeer Air Filter.

    Will keep you posted when I get a real test drive ... can't at the moment 'cause I'm installing a Kick starter to my bike (might take a while working after hours).
  7. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Nice Friggen BIKE!!!
  8. Harlock

    Harlock New Member

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    Thx

    It will get even better ;-)
    Always $500 short of done !
  9. Irish Niall

    Irish Niall New Member

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    Hi Harlock if you have changed your air filter system and are looking to sell your old back plate give me a shout. am looking for part No: 29319-95 and its changed to 29319-95A.

    thanks dude
  10. Harlock

    Harlock New Member

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    Hi there,

    An update:

    Just changed my air filter to a Screaming Eagle kit and set idle and mixture (2turns) ... run fine but began to cough when I opened throttle from idle (only on low rpm and speed). So I set the mixture screw to 2-3/4 turns and bike seemed to be running smoothly on idle and from idle ... took it out for a test drive ... didn't feel any coughing when going low speed so I went to next stage and wanted to see how it was running on high speed with throttle open.

    ... wish I didn't because the moment I let the throttle open for a moment and then wanted to slow down the carb started to cough so bad I decided to put it on the sidewalk. When I slowed down it started to cough even worse and went dead. Sat there 20 minutes trying to start my bike back up but couldn't. After waiting for another 20 minutes I was lucky enough to start it back up (still don't know why I succeeded then) and managed to get back home.

    Put the Harley in the garage pissed off at myself and decided it needed a couple of days to cool off (I need that anyway).

    I'm really wondering how to get it running smoothly again and all help will be appreciated.:banghead:

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