Harley Oil, Any Good?

Tranny - SVG- 75w-90 Synthetic EP Gear Lube (I think they recommend a 75/110 now)
Primary - MCF- Syn Motorcycle Oil SAE 10w-40
Engine - MCV- Syn Motorcycle Oil SAE 20w-50
Front Forks - #10 Medium Shock Therapy fluid
Harley oil filter
I don't think it is nosier than any other kind of oil, my clutch has never slipped and my tranny doesn't clunk when I shift.
Just rolled the 50,000 mile mark on the odometer.

Thanks for the run-down and the testimonial. I don't think I can improve on that by trying to do anything different. But while I been sitting out here in the Eastern Time Zone waiting on the big ball to drop in NYC, I been reading in the Owner's Manual and it sounds like I have liberty on the oil that I run in the crank case but not in the tranny or primary. Directly from the manual regarding the crank case it says "Initially add 3.5 quarts (3.3 liters) of engine oil". No specification as to brand, etc. However regarding the Primary it says "Pour 38 fl. oz (1.12 liters) of the recommended GENUINE Harley-Davidson lubricant through the clutch inspection cover opening". That sounds fairly specific as to the brand. Regarding the tranny it says "Fill the transmission with 32 fl.oz. (.95 liters) of the recommended GENUINE Harley-Davidson lubricant". Once again that sounds fairly specific. So I guess I'll ahve to use H-D at least in the tranny and Primary or am I reading it all wrong?

Run this in yer tranny.

Shockproof Gear Oil - Red Line Oil Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil

Run the V-Twin motor oil you want in yer engine.

You can either run Formula Plus in the primary, transmission oil or the 20-50 V-Twin motor oil.

I've been running Redline Shockproof gear oil in my tranny since 3,250 miles, I'm around 7,500 now. It helped a little for finding neutral (which was a problem for a while, even the Harley mechanics could find neutral then). I still get quite a clunk going from neutral to first, other gear changes are fine, what's up with that?

Bee glad you have a little problem findin neutral.
When yer riding it won't go in neutal when you speed shift and make you rev the engine up.
Harleys has always Clunked when goin into 1st gear.
Let the bike warm up more. Adjust the clutch.

When yer trying to find neutral, feather the clutch some and see if you don't find it easier.

I've done the clutch feathering thing to find neutral and it works. Most of the times when I think about it, I work the clutch a couple of times before going into 1st just to let the plates move a bit before putting them to work. Regarding the crank, tranny & primary liquids - that's sort of how I thought Harley was doing. I guess that's no different than the auto manufacturers do. Ford has Motorcraft, etc. Thanks for all the info.

FLHT....the article is excellent information,but was wondering on our Harleys you would just change motor oil out @ 30 miles or so and leave Primary and tranny alone? It really never refers to Harley other than"Iron Motors".

Just Googled "Comparison of Motorcycle Oils" and got several hits. Chose the first one which took me to the Amsoil site and an articleThe Great Oil Debate: Amsoil. They mention another report - 28 pages - which I have requested but in this article they mention the Magnusson-Moss Act that says, "in layman terms, a OEM cannot require a consumer to use an OEM part or fluid in order to maintain warranty coverage unless that part or fluid is provided free of charge". You all may have known about this but it was encouraging news to me.:roflmao:

By "feathering" exactly what do you mean? Lightly clutch a few times before shifting or just pull softly?...

When I feather the clutch, I let it about 1/3rd to 1/2 way out, reengage the clutch and try for neutral again with success. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries but I also noticed that when I got the OEM fluid out of the Heritage and replaced with Synthetic, it was easier to find neutral too.

My understandimg of warrenties would be if you fail to maintain the minium maintenance specs. and freqencies the Mfr,can void your warrenty. But you can use any products you choose which do not have to be the Mfr. products. I'm almost sure this remains to be accurate.

Of course you're correct HDtractor, but Harley has ways of pressuring people as they did with me.

To find neutral while my bike is parked, before I start the engine I just rock it back and forth a little and **** into neutral with out using the clutch. I always pull in the clutch to start the motor. Less drag on the crank. To find neutral at a stoplight I go all the way back to first while slowing down to stop. After stopping I just toe **** to neutral very gently. I don’t use a toe - heal shifter, just never made sense to me to try and shift with my heal. If I don’t go to first before stopping I to have to feather the clutch a bit to find netural, something to with rotation of the cogs and shifter dogs.
Gears and shift links. Some of the older guys on here probably reminder have to double clutch old trucks and cars. Harleys are kind of the same way.

Let up on the jack. use a little more Pepsi !:rant:

If any of y'all City Slickers ever git a chance. I got some friends that has been tellin me about Spectro for years.
I think if I remember right JPCYCLES carries it too,


Spectro Oils of America - 4 Stroke Engine Oils

Double clutching? I used to drive some old inline 6 cylinder International Harvester school buses that had fully UNsynchronized trannys that had to be double clutched to avoid grinding the gears away. I called 'em kick and knock trannys 'cause you had to kick 'em out of one gear and knock 'em into the next.